Prometheus System - Assembly Instructions

Table of Contents

    1. Kit Components
      1. Prometheus V2 Hot End Components
      2. ProFeeder Components
      3. ProStruder Components (2x)
    2. Assembly Instructions
      1. Prometheus V2 Hot End Assembly
      2. ProFeeder Assembly
      3. ProStruder Assembly (2x)

Kit Components

Prometheus V2 Hot End Components

Machined Parts:

  • 1x: 1-Piece Stainless Steel Nozzle (0.4mm)
  • 1x: Aluminium Heater Block
  • 1x: Aluminium Heat Sink - with embedded collet

    Hardware:

    • 5x: Aluminium Hex Nut
    • 1x: Black (1.75mm) Bowden Collet
    • 1x: Black 4mm ID (1.75mm) Rubber Spacer
    • 1x: 100mm length 2mm ID x 4mm OD (1.75mm) PTFE Tubing (for Heat Sink)
    • 2x: Black 3mm ID Rubber Washer (for Cooling Fan)
    • 2x: M3x16mm Button Head Bolt
    • 1x: M3x4mm Button Head Bolt
    • 4x: M3x3mm Set Screw
    • 1x: M3 Fender Washer
    • 1x: M2 Hex Wrench (for M3 Button Head Bolts)
    • 1x: M1.5 Hex Wrench (for M3 Set Screws)
    • 1x: 100mm Black Zip-Tie

      Electronics:

      • 1x: 12V/24V 40W 6mm x 20mm Heater Cartridge
      • 1x: 100KOhm Semitec 104GT2 NTC thermistor
      • 1x: 12V/24V 25x25x10mm Cooling Fan (for Heat Sink)
      • 1x: 80mm length 0.5mm ID 1mm OD High Temp Insulation Tubing (for Thermistor)
      • 1x: 65mm length 2.5mm ID Black 2:1 Heat Shink Tubing (for Thermistor)
      • 4x: 1mm^2 x 12mm Copper Wire Ferrules (Solder-Free Connection)
      • 1x: 1m length Thermistor Wires with 2-pin Dupont Connectors

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      ProFeeder Components

      Machined Parts:

      • 1x: KETRON HPV - PEEK Filament Guide

      3D Printed Parts:

      • 2x: Nylon ProFeeder Body
      • 4x: Nylon Collet Locks

        Hardware:

        • 3x: Brass Collet Housing
        • 3x: Black Bowden Collet
        • 7x: M3x16mm Button Head Bolt
        • 14x: M3 Washer
        • 7x: M3 Hex Nut

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        ProStruder Components (2x)

        Laser Cut Parts (thickness):

        • 1x: Acrylic Back (4.5mm)
        • 1x: Acrylic Front (4.5mm)
        • 1x: Acrylic Top (4.5mm) - with embedded collet
        • 1x: Acrylic Bottom (4.5mm) - with embedded collet
        • 1x: Acrylic Bottom Nut Trap (4.5mm)
        • 2x: Acrylic Hinge (4.5mm)
        • 1x: Acrylic Hinge Spacer (4.5mm)
        • 2x: Acrylic 9mm Washer (4.5mm)
        • 8x: Acrylic 7.5mm Washer (4.5mm)
        • 3x: Acrylic Tube Guide (4.5mm)
        • 1x: Acrylic Hinge Nut Trap (3mm)
        • 1x: Acrylic Mounting Nut Trap (3mm)
        • 2x: Acrylic 7.5mm Washer (3mm)
        • 1x: Acrylic 12.5mm Washer (3mm)

        3D Printed Parts:

        • 2x: Nylon Collet Locks

          Hardware:

          • 1x: Flat Shaft Drive Gear
          • 1x: Tension Spring
          • 1x: 3mm Ball Bearing
          • 2x: M3x50mm Socket Head Bolt
          • 1x: M3x40mm Socket Head Bolt
          • 1x: M3x35mm Socket Head Bolt
          • 2x: M3x22mm Socket Head Bolt
          • 2x: M3x10mm Socket Head Bolt
          • 5x: M3 Fender Washer
          • 9x: M3 Washer
          • 6x: M3 Hex Nut
          • 2x: M4x20mm Socket Head Bolt
          • 2x: M4 Washer
          • 2x: M4 Hex Nut
          • 2x: M4 Rubber Washer
          • 1x: M2.5 Hex Wrench (for M3 Socket Head Bolts) - only included in one of the kits
          • 1x: 800mm length 2mm ID x 4mm OD (1.75mm) PTFE Bowden Tubing
          • 1x: 250mm Black Zip-Tie

          Electronics:

          • 1x: 5:1 Geared 40mm Nema 17 Stepper Motor
          • 1x: 1200mm 4-Wire Stepper Motor Cable
          • 1x: 12V/24V 40x40x10mm Cooling Fan (for Stepper Motor)

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          Assembly Instructions

          Please read this entire document and carefully follow EVERY step.
          Assembly Time: < 45 minutes

          NOTE: Be very careful when opening the packages. There are many small parts that are easily lost if you are not careful.

          NOTE: If you purchased the Prometheus System (E3D V6 Upgrade), reassemble your E3D V6 Hot End with the new Prometheus Heat Break and skip to the ProFeeder Assembly.

          Required Tools and Skills 

          • Heat Gun, Soldering Iron, or a Lighter (for Heat Shrink Tubing)
          • Small Pliers
          • Adjustable Spanner
          • Wire Strippers
          • Flush Cutters
          • Utility Knife

          Safety Precautions

          • Please follow ALL instructions in this document! If anything is unclear please contact us before trying something that may damage the product or harm the user.
          • Electricity can be dangerous! Ensure that your power is unplugged when you are hooking up the electronics.
          • Be careful with the 1-Piece Nozzles! While these Nozzles are quite strong, they do have a fairly thin wall of material. They will withstand all the normal stresses of operation, but please be careful when using heavy tools.
          • Be careful with the thermistors! The thermistor leads are very small and delicate and the bead is made of glass. To avoid shearing the thermistor leads or crushing the glass bead please handle this thermistor with care.
          • This “Hot End” gets very hot! Please do not touch the Heater Block or adjacent Hex Nuts while the hot end is in operation.

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          Prometheus V2 Hot End Assembly

          • You will receive two bags containing the kit components. Make sure you have everything:

          • If you received a set screw Heater Block that resembles the one in the image below, then proceed with the following assembly instructions. If you received a newer clamping heater block, then skip ahead and follow the Assembly Instructions for the clamping Heater Block.

          Assembly Instructions for the set screw Heater Block

          • Thread the Nozzle into the Heater Block and then thread a Hex Nut against the Heater Block on the end of the Nozzle closest to the orifice:

          • While holding the Heater Block, tighten the Hex Nut against the Heater Block using a small spanner. Ensure that it is tight enough so that you cannot unscrew the nut with your finger. 1/8th turn should be enough. This step does not require excessive force!
          • Using the supplied M1.5 Hex Wrench, insert two M3x3 Set Screws into the threaded holes in the Heat Sink so that they are flush with the surface as shown:

          • Thread the Heat Sink onto the assembled Nozzle until the bottom of the Heat Sink is a distance of 2mm from the top of the Heater Block.

           

          • You can also use the supplied M2 Hex Wrench as a spacer to ensure that the gap is 2mm:

          • Tighten the Set Screws just enough so that the nozzle assembly cannot turn in the Heat Sink. Do not over-tighten. 

          • Cut (2) 35mm lengths of the High Temperature Tubing:

          • Cut (2) 30mm lengths of the Black Heat Shrink tubing:

          • Slide the High-Temperature Tubing over the Thermistor leads and push the tubing right up to the head of the Thermistor. Slide the Fiberglass Sleeves over the High-Temperature Tubing so that the end of the Fiberglass Sleeves are about 5mm from the tip of the thermistor. Slide the Wire Ferrules over the High-Temperature Tubing as shown in the image below:

          • Strip 10mm of the insulation off the end of the Thermistor Wires:

           

          • Slide the lengths of Heat Shrink over the Thermistor Wires and bend the ends of the exposed wires into loops:

          • Hook the ends of each wire around each other:

           

          • Slide the Copper Ferrules over the connection and clamp down on them using a set of pliers. Make sure the High-Temperature Tubing extends right up to the Thermistor bead before you clamp the Ferrules!

          • The connection should be strong and should look like this:

          • Slide the Heat Shrink tubing over the Ferrules and apply heat using a Heat Gun, Soldering Iron, or Lighter. Ensure that you maintain the 5mm distance from the end of the Fiberglass Sleeves to the tip of the Thermistor:

          • Bend the Thermistor leads at 90 degrees 5mm from the tip as shown:

          • Carefully insert the bead of the Thermistor into the Thermistor hole at the top of the Heater Block closest to the Heat Sink and secure it using the M3x4mm Button Head Bolt and an M3 Fender Washer. Ensure that the washer is tightened against the Fiberglass Sleeves which will provide an extra strain relief as shown. Tighten the bolt just enough so that the Thermistor leads cannot become loose and ensure that the washer and sleeving do not block the 6mm hole for the heater cartridge. Do not overtighten! Use the supplied M2 Hex Wrench:

          • Insert the Heater Cartridge into the hole in the Heater Block and tighten with an M3x3mm Set Screw. Tighten the Set Screw just enough so that the Heater Cartridge cannot become loose using the supplied 1.5mm Hex Wrench:

          • Insert the two M3x16mm Button Head Bolts into the two bottom mounting holes on the Cooling Fan so that the sticker on the Cooling Fan will face the Heat Sink. Place the two Rubber Washers onto the bolts as illustrated below:

          • Fasten the Cooling Fan to the Heat Sink using the supplied M2 Hex Wrench:

          • Bend the Heater Cartridge cables and use the Black Zip-Tie to tie the wires of the Heater Cartridge, Cooling Fan, and Thermistor together to provide appropriate strain-relief:

          • Cut the excess length off the Zip-Tie. Your hot end is now fully assembled! 

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          Assembly Instructions for the clamping Heater Block

          • Using the supplied M1.5 Hex Wrench, insert an M3x3mm Set Screw into the threaded hole in the Heater Block so that it is flush with the surface as shown:

          • Place the M3 Washer onto the M3x8mm Button Head Bolt and thread it into the hole in the Heater Block as shown using the supplied M2 Hex Wrench:

          • Thread the Nozzle into the Heater Block and then thread a Hex Nut against the Heater Block on the end of the Nozzle closest to the orifice:

          • While holding the Heater Block, tighten the Hex Nut against the Heater Block using a small spanner. Ensure that it is tight enough so that you cannot unscrew the nut with your finger. 1/8th turn should be enough. This step does not require excessive force!
          • Cut (2) 35mm lengths of the High-Temperature Tubing:

          • Cut (2) 30mm lengths of the Black Heat Shrink tubing:

          • Slide the High-Temperature Tubing over the Thermistor leads and push the tubing right up to the head of the Thermistor. Slide the Fiberglass Sleeves over the High-Temperature Tubing so that the end of the Fiberglass Sleeves are about 5mm from the tip of the thermistor. Slide the Wire Ferrules over the High-Temperature Tubing as shown in the image below:

          • Strip 10mm of the insulation off the end of the Thermistor Wires:

           

          • Slide the lengths of Heat Shrink over the Thermistor Wires and bend the ends of the exposed wires into loops:

          • Hook the ends of each wire around each other:

           

          • Slide the Copper Ferrules over the connection and clamp down on them using a set of pliers. Make sure the High-Temperature Tubing extends right up to the Thermistor bead before you clamp the Ferrules!

          • The connection should be strong and should look like this:

          • Slide the Heat Shrink tubing over the Ferrules and apply heat using a Heat Gun, Soldering Iron, or Lighter. Ensure that you maintain the 5mm distance from the end of the Fiberglass Sleeves to the tip of the Thermistor:

          • Bend the Thermistor leads at 90 degrees 5mm from the tip as shown:

          • Carefully insert the bead of the Thermistor into the 5mm deep Thermistor hole in the Heater Block and secure it using the M3x4mm Button Head Bolt and an M3 Fender Washer. Do not insert the thermistor into the other hole that passes all the way through the Heater Block.
          • Ensure that the washer is tightened against the Fiberglass Sleeves which will provide an extra strain relief as shown. Tighten the bolt just enough so that the Thermistor leads cannot become loose and ensure that the washer and sleeving do not block the 6mm hole for the heater cartridge. Do not over-tighten. 

          • Insert the Heater Cartridge into the hole in the Heater Block. Tighten the M3x8mm Button Head Bolt using the supplied 2mm Hex Wrench so that the Heater Cartridge is held firmly in the Heater Block:

          • Apply a very thin layer of the Thermal Paste to the Nozzle as shown in the image below. The Thermal Paste should cover an 8mm section of the Nozzle about 4mm from the top of the Heater Block:

          • Using the supplied M1.5 Hex Wrench, insert two M3x3mm Set Screws into the threaded holes in the Heat Sink so that they are flush with the surface as shown:

          • Thread the Heat Sink onto the assembled Nozzle until the bottom of the Heat Sink is a distance of 2mm from the top of the Heater Block. Tighten the Set Screws just enough so that the nozzle assembly cannot turn in the Heat Sink. Do not over-tighten. 
          • NOTE: It is very important to clean the Thermal Paste the builds up at the bottom of the Heat Sink as you thread it onto the Nozzle to ensure that the 2mm of exposed threads are completely clean. If the Thermal Paste builds up on the 2mm of exposed threads, it will conduct too much heat from the Heater Block to the Heat Sink.

           

          • You can also use the supplied M2 Hex Wrench as a spacer to ensure that the gap is 2mm:

          • Insert the two M3x16mm Button Head Bolts into the two bottom mounting holes on the Cooling Fan so that the sticker on the Cooling Fan will face the Heat Sink. Place the two Rubber Washers onto the bolts as illustrated below:

          • Fasten the Cooling Fan to the Heat Sink using the supplied M2 Hex Wrench:

          • Bend the Heater Cartridge cables and use the Black Zip-Tie to tie the wires of the Heater Cartridge, Cooling Fan, and Thermistor together to provide appropriate strain-relief:

          • Cut the excess length off the Zip-Tie. Your hot end is now fully assembled! 

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          ProFeeder Assembly

          • You will receive one bag containing the ProFeeder kit components. Make sure you have everything:

          • Place an M3 Washer onto each of the 7x M3x16mm Button Head Bolts and insert the bolts into the holes in the 3D Printed ProFeeder Body:

          • Insert the other 3D Printed ProFeeder Body onto the bolts and secure each bolt loosely with an M3 Washer and an M3 Hex Nut:

          • Loosely insert the Brass Collet Housings into each of the three outlets of the ProFeeder:

          • Press each Brass Housing into the ProFeeder Body using a flat surface:

          • The Brass Housings should now be flush with the surface:

          • Tighten each of the bolts using the M2 Hex Wrench and while holding the M3 Hex Nuts with a set of pliers or adjustable spanners:

          • The ProFeeder should now look like this:

          • The bolts should extend about 1.5mm from the M3 Hex Nuts to ensure that the Brass Housings are properly secured:

          • Carefully insert the Collets into the Brass Housings:

          • Secure the Collet at the bottom of the ProFeeder using a Nylon Collet Lock:

          • Secure the Collet at the top of the Prometheus V2 Heat Sink using a Nylon Collet Lock:

          • NOTE: The old configuration and Toolchange G-Code used the black 50mm PEEK Tube. We now use a new configuration and Toolchange G-Code that uses the polished 1-piece Prometheus V2 nozzle (or Prometheus Heat Break for the E3D V6 Upgrade) to shape the filament and ensure reliable filament switching using 50mm standard PTFE tubing. The assembly steps for this new configuration are shown below.
          • Cut a 50mm length of the PTFE tubing using a utility knife to get a clean and flat end:

          • Bevel one end of the 50mm PTFE Tube using the utility knife. Be very careful not to hurt yourself with the knife!

          • The beveled end will allow the filament to pass into the PTFE Tube without getting caught.

            • Insert the beveled end of the PTFE Tube into the bottom of the ProFeeder. It will be a tight fit. 

            • Push it all the way in so that it is completely secured:

            • Insert the flat end of the PTFE Tube into the top of the Heat Sink. Push it all the way in so that it is completely secured:

            • The distance from the top of the Heat Sink to the bottom of the ProFeeder should be 15mm (this distance will be 16mm for the E3D V6 Hot End):

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                ProStruder Assembly (2x)

                • You will receive two bags containing the two ProStruder kit components, and one bag containing the Cooling Fans and Zip-Ties. The Geared Stepper Motors and 4-Wire Motor Cables will be packed separately. Make sure you have everything:

                • NOTE: You can complete the following steps for each ProStruder and mirror the assembly instructions horizontally to have the ProStruders assembled as mirror images.
                • Insert the Acylic 12.5mm Washer (3mm) onto the shaft of the stepper motor:

                • Insert the Flat Shaft Drive Gear onto the shaft of the Geared Stepper Motor and tighten the set screw using the M1.5 Hex Wrench:

                • Place the Acrylic Back (4.5mm) against the face of the Geared Stepper Motor and thread (2) M3x10mm Socket Head Bolts into these two holes using the M2.5 Hex Wrench:

                • Place an M3 Washer on each of the M3x22mm Socket Head Bolts and insert them into these two holes in the Acrylic Hinge (4.5mm):

                • Insert an Acrylic 9mm Washer (4.5mm) and an Acrylic 7.5mm Washer (3mm) onto the M3x22mm Socket Head Bolts as shown:

                • Insert an M3 Fender Washer and a 3mm Ball Bearing onto the M3x22mm Socket Head Bolts as shown:

                • Insert an Acrylic 9mm Washer (4.5mm) and an Acrylic 7.5mm Washer (3mm) onto the M3x22mm Socket Head Bolts as shown:

                • Place the Acrylic Hinge Spacer (4.5mm) in the cutout in the Acrylic Hinge (4.5mm) as shown:

                • Place the Acrylic Hinge Nut Trap (3mm) in the cutout in the Acrylic Hinge (4.5mm) as shown:

                • Complete the hinge assembly with the remaining Acrylic Hinge (4.5mm). Tighten the M3x22mm Socket Head Bolts with (2) M3 Nex Nuts using the M2.5 Hex Wrench while holding the nuts with an adjustable spanner or a set of pliers:

                • Place an M3 Washer onto the M3x35mm Socket Head Bolt and insert the bolt into the hole in the Acrylic Front (4.5mm):

                • Insert an M3 Fender Washer onto the M3x35mm Socket Head Bolt as shown:

                • Insert the hinge assembly onto the M3x35mm Socket Head Bolt as shown:

                • Insert an M3 Fender Washer onto the M3x35mm Socket Head Bolt as shown:

                • Thread the M3x35mm Socket Head Bolt into the remaining mounting hole in the face of the Geared Stepper Motor using the M2.5 Hex Wrench. Loosely thread the bolt into the hole until the Acrylic Front (4.5mm) piece can no longer wiggle from side to side:

                • Place an M3 Fender Washer on each of the M3x50mm Socket Head Bolts and insert them into the two holes in the Acrylic Top (4.5mm). Then insert (2) M3 Washers onto each bolt as shown:

                • Insert an Acrylic Tube Guide (4.5mm) onto the M3x50mm Socket Head Bolts as shown:

                • Insert (4) Acrylic 7.5mm Washer (4.5mm) onto each of the M3x50mm Socket Head Bolts as shown to complete the top assembly:

                • Insert the top assembly into the extruder assembly as shown:

                • The extruder assembly should now look like this:

                • Insert (2) Acrylic Tube Guide (4.5mm) onto the M3x50mm Socket Head Bolts as shown:

                • Insert the Acrylic Mounting Nut Trap (3mm) onto the M3x50mm Socket Head Bolts as shown:

                • Insert the Acrylic Bottom (4.5mm) onto the M3x50mm Socket Head Bolts as shown:

                • The assembly should now look like this:

                • NOTE: If you received an Early Bird kit from the Kickstarter campaign, follow the next 5 assembly steps below for the old configuration. If your kit was shipped after the Kickstarter Early Bird shipment, then skip the next 5 steps and follow the instructions for the new configuration.
                • Thread an M3 Hex Nut onto the end of one of the M3x50mm Socket Head Bolts:

                • Fit the Acrylic Bottom Nut Trap (4.5mm) onto the M3 Hex Nut and align it with the Acrylic Bottom (4.5mm):

                • Insert another M3 Hex Nut into the cutout in the Acrylic Bottom Nut Trap (4.5mm). Using the supplied M2.5 Hex Wrench, carefully tighten the M3x50mm Socket Head Bolt just enough to hold the nut in place. DO NOT overtighten.

                • Carefully tighten the other M3x50mm Socket Head Bolt just enough to hold the nut in place. DO NOT overtighten.

                • The assembly should now look like this:

                • NOTE: All Prometheus System kits shipped after the Early Bird shipment have a new dual collet configuration for the ProStruders. The assembly steps for the new configuration are shown in the next 6 steps below. If you received an Early Bird kit, then skip the next 6 steps and continue with the instructions.
                • Place an M3 Fender Washer on each of the M3x50mm Socket Head Bolts as shown:

                • Place an M3 Washer on each of the M3x50mm Socket Head Bolts as shown:

                • Place an M3 Fender Washer on each of the M3x50mm Socket Head Bolts as shown:

                • Thread an M3 Hex Nut onto the end of one of the M3x50mm Socket Head Bolts:

                • Thread an M3 Hex Nut onto the end of the other M3x50mm Socket Head Bolt:

                • Insert the Acrylic Bottom End (4.5mm) onto the M3 Hex Nuts as shown. Using the supplied M2.5 Hex Wrench, carefully tighten the M3x50mm Socket Head Bolts just enough to hold the nuts in place. DO NOT overtighten.

                • Insert an M4 Hex Nut into the cutout in the Acrylic Mounting Nut Trap (3mm):

                • While holding the nut in place with your finger, place an M4 Washer and an M4 Rubber Washer onto the M4x20mm Socket Head Bolt and use your fingers to thread it into the nut as shown. DO NOT overtighten.
                • NOTE: Drill (2) 4mm holes spaced 50mm apart to secure the ProStruder to your 3D Printer using these M4 bolts.

                • Insert an M4 Hex Nut into the other cutout in the Acrylic Mounting Nut Trap (3mm):

                • While holding the nut in place with your finger, place an M4 Washer and an M4 Rubber Washer onto the M4x20mm Socket Head Bolt and use your fingers to thread it into the nut as shown. DO NOT overtighten.

                • Place an M3 Fender Washer and the Tension Spring onto the M3x40mm Socket Head Bolt as shown:

                • Insert an M3 Hex Nut into the cutout in the Acrylic Hinge Nut Trap (3mm):

                • While holding the nut in place with your finger, thread the M3x40mm Socket Head Bolt into the nut as shown:

                • To ensure sufficient extruder tension, the distance from the bottom of the M3 Fender Washer and the top of the extruder assembly should be about 14mm:

                • The assembly should now look like this:

                  • Bevel one end of the supplied 800mm length of PTFE tubing using a utility knife. Be very careful not to hurt yourself with the knife!

                  • The beveled end will allow the filament to pass through the extruder into the tubing without getting caught.

                  • Insert the beveled end of the tubing into the Collet at the bottom of the ProStruder and push it all the way up to the drive gear.
                  • NOTE: It is very important that you push the PTFE Tubing all the way up to the drive gear. This ensures that the filament is properly constrained and prevents it from buckling in the extruder. 

                  • Secure the Collet at the bottom of the ProStruder using a Nylon Collet Lock:

                  • Cut a 30mm length of PVC tape (any other strong tape would also work):

                  • Wrap the tape around the PTFE Tubing at the base of the collet as shown:
                  • NOTE: This tape is important as it prevents the PTFE Tubing from being pulled into the extruder during filament switching.

                  • Cut the bowden tubing to your required length using a utility knife to ensure a clean and flat end. 
                  • NOTE: Shorter bowden tubes produce better results. A bowden tube length of less than 400mm is HIGHLY recommended.
                  • Insert the remaining tubing into the Collet at the top of the ProStruder and push it down to the drive gear.

                  • Secure the Collet at the top of the ProStruder using a Nylon Collet Lock:

                  • Cut another 30mm length of PVC tape and wrap it around the PTFE Tubing at the base of the collet as shown:

                  • The assembly should now look like this:

                  • Finally, secure the 40mm Cooling Fan to the ProStruder using the 250mm Zip-Tie and cut off the extra length. Insert the 4-Wire Stepper Motor Cable into the Geared Stepper Motor. The ProStruder is now fully assembled. 

                  • Insert the bowden tubes from the ProStruders into the two inputs at the top of the ProFeeder:

                  • Secure each Collet at the top of the ProFeeder using a Nylon Collet Lock:

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                  Proceed to the User Guide

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